Certified Business
With over 100,000 orders
A hammer drill can drill concrete, brick, block, mortar, and some natural stone when you use hammer mode with a masonry bit. It can also drill wood, metal, tile, glass, plastic, and composite panels when you switch off the hammer action and install the correct bit.
The key is to match the material, mode, bit, chuck, speed, and hole size. This guide explains what a hammer drill can handle and when a rotary hammer becomes the better tool.
Hammer mode combines rotation with rapid impacts. Use it for concrete, brick, block, mortar, and compatible stone.
Drill-only mode provides rotation without impact. Use it for wood, metal, plastic, tile, glass, and composite panels. Hammer action can splinter wood, deform thin metal, or crack brittle surfaces.
Use carbide-tipped masonry bits for concrete and brick. Wood may require a twist, brad-point, spade, or auger bit. HSS and cobalt bits suit metal, while tile, glass, and plastic need specialized bits.
Extra pressure cannot make the wrong bit work properly. It usually creates more heat and wear.
A cordless impact drill is useful for household repairs, installation work, and mobile jobs because it gives you more freedom to work without staying close to a power outlet. With the correct bit, it can handle a range of everyday drilling tasks while remaining easier to carry between work areas.
However, the bit still needs to match the tool’s chuck. Standard hammer drills normally use a keyed or keyless three-jaw chuck, so check the chuck capacity and supported shank size before choosing a bit.
SDS-Plus rotary hammers use grooved SDS-Plus bits, which do not fit directly into a standard three-jaw chuck. Always confirm the bit diameter, working length, shank design, and chuck compatibility before drilling.

A hammer drill can make small and medium anchor holes in many types of concrete. Install a carbide masonry bit, select hammer mode, and begin at a controlled speed.
Keep the drill straight and withdraw the bit occasionally during deeper holes to clear dust. Do not force the tool when it meets hard aggregate. If the bit contacts reinforcing steel, stop and check whether you can safely move the hole.
Brick, concrete block, and mortar are usually easier to drill than dense concrete, but excessive impact can crack brittle masonry.
Choose the drilling location according to the anchor and load. Start slowly on older brick, and control the depth when drilling hollow block.
A hammer drill can handle some natural stone with a sharp carbide masonry bit. Start slowly to stop the bit from sliding.
Soft stone may chip, while dense stone such as granite may require more time or a rotary hammer. Avoid hammer mode on polished or decorative stone unless the supplier confirms it is safe.
Use drill-only mode. Twist bits suit general holes, brad-point bits improve accuracy, spade bits create larger holes, and auger bits work well in thick lumber.
Use lower speeds with larger bits and keep the tool steady.
Use a sharp wood or multipurpose bit. Support the back of the panel to reduce breakout.
Laminate can chip easily, so begin slowly. Never use hammer mode because impact can separate layers or damage the finish.
Place scrap wood behind the workpiece when possible. For large or visible holes, begin with a pilot hole.
Reduce pressure as the bit reaches the back of the material.
Use a sharp HSS bit and mark the hole with a center punch. Drill at moderate speed with steady pressure.
Clamp the workpiece securely. Never hold a small metal part by hand because the bit can catch and spin it.
HSS bits can handle many mild-steel jobs. Cobalt bits resist heat better when drilling harder steel or stainless steel.
Use a lower speed than for wood and apply steady pressure. Cutting fluid can reduce friction and heat.
Large bits and hard metals require lower speed. Start with a pilot hole before drilling a large diameter.
Pause during deep holes to clear chips and let the bit cool. Keep hammer mode off.
Use a carbide tile bit, spear-point bit, or suitable diamond bit. Begin at low speed so the bit does not slide.
Keep hammer mode off while passing through tile. If masonry sits behind it, drill through the tile first, then change to a masonry bit before activating hammer mode.
Use a bit designed for glass. Drill at low speed with light pressure and keep hammer mode off.
Support the glass on a flat surface and avoid drilling near an edge or crack.
Use drill-only mode with a sharp twist or plastic bit. Low speed helps prevent melting.
Support thin panels and reduce pressure as the bit exits. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for layered composites.
Hammer action can crack tile, glass, laminate, and thin stone veneers. It can also damage wood, plastic, sheet metal, and composite panels.
Switching to drill-only mode removes the impact, but you still need the correct bit and speed.
Every hammer drill has maximum capacities for concrete, wood, and metal. Large or deep holes place more load on the motor, chuck, bit, and operator.
Check the manual before using large masonry bits, hole saws, or core bits.
A standard hammer drill works well for occasional anchor holes in brick, block, and light concrete. However, it may struggle with hard concrete, larger diameters, deeper holes, or repeated masonry work.
For heavier tasks, a 13A SDS-Plus rotary hammer drill transfers impact energy more efficiently through the SDS bit and requires less pressure from the user. It also provides the power and operating modes needed for drilling, hammer drilling, and light chiseling in concrete, brick, and stone.
Choose a rotary hammer when the task involves hard concrete, larger holes, repeated masonry drilling, or chiseling. Users comparing hammer drills, rotary hammers, and other workshop equipment can explore SeeSii Power Tools for tools designed for drilling, fastening, cutting, and home improvement work.
A rotary hammer drills hard concrete more efficiently than a standard hammer drill. However, a masonry bit should not cut through reinforcing steel.
Use a detector where walls or slabs may contain rebar, wires, or pipes.
SDS-Plus rotary hammers suit larger anchor holes and deeper masonry drilling. Their grooved bits transfer impact energy efficiently while remaining locked in the chuck.
Use a depth gauge when the fastener requires a specific embedment depth.

Repeated concrete drilling creates heat, vibration, and fatigue. A rotary hammer can often complete this work faster and with less effort.
Some rotary hammers provide a hammer-only mode for removing tile, breaking mortar, or creating light channels.
The SeeSii 13A SDS-Plus Rotary Hammer supports drilling, hammer drilling, chiseling, and chisel positioning, making it more suitable for heavier masonry work.
Walls, floors, and ceilings may contain cables, pipes, or reinforcement. Use a suitable detector and take extra care near outlets, switches, and plumbing fixtures.
Clamp loose workpieces to a stable surface. Use both hands when the drill includes an auxiliary handle. Wear eye protection. Masonry drilling may also require dust control and respiratory protection.
Inspect the bit for cracks, bent shanks, worn carbide tips, and damaged cutting edges. Replace it when drilling slows despite correct mode and pressure. Do not solve a worn-bit problem by pushing harder.
A hammer drill can work on more than concrete and brick. With hammer mode off, it can also drill wood, metal, tile, glass, plastic, and composite panels. Use hammer mode with a masonry bit for compatible masonry. Use drill-only mode with the correct material-specific bit for other surfaces. For hard concrete, larger holes, repeated masonry drilling, or chiseling, an SDS-Plus rotary hammer may perform better.
Not always. A hammer drill with drill-only mode can handle many normal drilling and screwdriving jobs. However, a drill driver is usually lighter and easier to control for furniture assembly, small screws, overhead work, and repetitive tasks.
Look for a hammer symbol on the mode selector or adjustment ring. The manual may also call it a hammer drill, percussion drill, or combi drill. Its specifications may include a percussion rate measured in BPM or IPM.
Common problems include slow drilling, overheating, excessive vibration, chuck slippage, bit binding, and hammer mode failing to engage. The wrong bit, incorrect mode, excess pressure, blocked flutes, or a worn cutting edge often causes poor performance.
Yes, if the tool includes drill-only or screwdriving mode. Turn off hammer action, install a compatible driver bit, and use a low clutch setting when available. A drill driver may still feel more comfortable for long assembly jobs.
{"one"=>"Select 2 or 3 items to compare", "other"=>"{{ count }} of 3 items selected"}