Certified Business
With over 100,000 orders
To measure your chainsaw bar length, disconnect the power source, hold a tape measure against the front edge of the saw housing, extend it to the tip of the bar, and round the reading up to the nearest even inch. That number is the called length, the figure printed in catalogs and used to order replacement parts. The whole process takes about a minute. This guide walks through the tools you need, how to measure both the bar and the chain, how to match the numbers to the right replacement parts, and the common mistakes that lead to ordering the wrong size.
Bar length determines almost every accessory and replacement part you will ever buy for the saw. Replacement chains come sized by drive link count, which is tied to bar length. Bar scabbards and bar covers are sold by inch size. Carrying cases, replacement bars themselves, and even some manufacturer warranties reference the bar length to confirm you have the model you think you have.
Bar length also tells you what the saw is capable of. A 12 inch bar handles branches and small pruning work. A 16 to 18 inch bar manages most firewood and homeowner tree work. Anything above 20 inches is professional felling territory. If you bought a used cordless chainsaw or inherited a gas saw without paperwork, measuring the bar is how you figure out which group the saw belongs to before pushing it into a job it cannot handle.

Almost nothing. A standard tape measure marked in inches is enough for the bar itself. A ruler works if the bar is short. For checking the chain you will want a caliper or precise ruler that reads in fractions of an inch, because chain dimensions matter to the hundredth of an inch in some cases. Add a clean rag and a notepad to jot down the numbers, and that is the whole kit.
The number you are after is the called length. It is the rounded figure manufacturers print on the saw, used in every catalog and replacement listing. You may also see something called true length, which is the bar's actual end-to-end measurement and runs 1 to 2 inches longer than the called length. True length only matters when you are ordering an exact-fit replacement bar from a specialty supplier. For everything else, called length is what you need.
Pull the battery from a cordless saw or disconnect the spark plug boot on a gas saw before touching the bar. Even a saw at rest can fire if the chain bumps the wrong control during measuring. This is a thirty second step that prevents the kind of injury you only need to read about once.
Find the seam where the bar exits the powerhead of the saw, the flat edge of the plastic or metal housing closest to the chain. Press the hook of the tape measure flat against that edge. The tape needs to sit parallel with the bar so the reading is accurate, not angled across the saw body.
Pull the tape along the top of the bar to the very front of the nose, including the sprocket tip if your bar has one. Read the number where the tape meets the tip. You will usually get something like 11 and 5/8 inches, 13 and 3/4 inches, or 17 and 1/2 inches. Do not round yet.
Chainsaw bars are sold in even-inch increments: 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, and so on. Round your reading up to the closest one. 11 and 5/8 becomes 12. 13 and 3/4 becomes 14. 17 and 1/2 becomes 18. That rounded number is the called length and what every replacement listing will match.
The chain is sized by three numbers: drive link count, pitch, and gauge. You need all three to order a matching replacement. Skipping any one of them means the new chain either does not fit the bar or does not seat in the drive sprocket.
Drive links are the small pointed tabs on the bottom of the chain that ride inside the bar groove. Lay the chain flat or mark a starting link with chalk, then count every drive link around the full loop. Common counts run from 28 on small saws up to 80 or more on professional bars. Write the number down.
Pitch is the distance between three consecutive rivets divided by two, and it is almost always stamped on at least one drive link. Common values are 1/4 inch, 0.325 inch, 3/8 inch (regular and low-profile), and 0.404 inch. If the stamp is worn off, measure rivet centers with a caliper and divide.
Gauge is the thickness of the drive link where it sits in the bar groove. Standard values are 0.043, 0.050, 0.058, and 0.063 inch. This number is also stamped on the chain on most modern saws. Match the chain gauge to your bar groove width or the chain will either bind or wobble.

Once you have the bar length and the three chain numbers, ordering replacement parts becomes straightforward. The same numbers apply whether you are working on a full-size saw or a compact mini chainsaw used for pruning.
When ordering a replacement bar, filter by called length first (12 inch, 14 inch, etc.) and then by mount pattern. Mount patterns differ by saw brand and model, so a 16 inch DeWalt bar will not fit a 16 inch Stihl. The called length narrows the choice. The mount pattern confirms it.
A chain is sold by pitch and drive link count: a 3/8 LP chain with 45 drive links, for example. Both numbers have to match exactly. Drive link count too low and the chain will not reach around the bar. Too high and there will be slack you cannot remove with tension adjustment.
Gauge is the detail that catches more buyers than any other. A chain with the right pitch and drive link count can still be the wrong gauge and bind in the bar groove. Confirm the gauge stamped on your old chain matches the gauge listed on the new one before paying. A SeeSii mini chainsaw chain replacement lists pitch, drive link count, and gauge on the product page so you can verify the match before ordering.
A grimy bar tip adds visible thickness and pushes the tape reading off by a quarter inch or more. Wipe the bar clean with a rag before measuring. The same applies to oil buildup at the housing seam, which can hide the true front edge.
These are different numbers and not interchangeable. Bar length is measured in inches and refers to the bar itself. Chain length is measured by drive link count, not inches. Asking for "a 16 inch chain" at a supply counter will get you a puzzled look. Ask for a chain matching your bar length and chain specs.
Always round up to the next even inch, never down. A 13.5 inch reading is a 14 inch bar, not a 12 inch bar. Round down and the replacement parts will not fit. If you are right at the line between two sizes, check the manufacturer label on the saw or the original receipt before ordering.
Measuring a chainsaw bar is a one-minute job that saves hours of returned parts and wrong-size frustration. Pull the power, lay the tape from the housing edge to the tip, round up to the next even inch, then write down the drive link count, pitch, and gauge from the chain. Those four numbers together open the door to every replacement bar, chain, scabbard, and accessory the saw will ever need.
Common bar lengths and their typical use: 8 to 12 inch for pruning and small branch work, 14 inch for light firewood, 16 to 18 inch for general homeowner felling and bucking, 20 inch for medium hardwoods, and 24 inch and above for professional logging.
Chain length is not measured in inches but in drive link count. The formula is straightforward: count the drive links on your existing chain. There is no calculator that converts bar inches directly to chain links, because the link count depends on pitch as well as bar size.
A well-maintained bar can last several years or hundreds of cutting hours, depending on use and chain tension habits. Watch for uneven rail wear, burrs along the groove edge, and a deepened groove from a chain that ran loose. Once any of these show up, replacement is cheaper than continuing to damage chains on a worn bar.
Chainsaw size is usually described by bar length plus engine displacement (for gas saws) or battery voltage (for cordless). For shopping purposes, the bar length is the most useful single number, since it tells you what the saw can physically cut.
{"one"=>"Sélectionnez 2 ou 3 articles à comparer", "other"=>"{{ count }} éléments sélectionnés sur 3"}
Sélectionnez le premier élément à comparer
Sélectionnez le deuxième élément à comparer
Sélectionnez le troisième élément à comparer